Finalising my design

After studying the work of Pat McGrath's makeup for John Galliano, I have been inspired to carry forward the purple colours into my final piece. I was particularly taken aback by the lips,  the shape is so perfectly defined on the top lip, which is highlighted by the silver outline on the cupid's bow. McGrath's makeup is a big reason why I wanted to become a makeup artist, she has always been very influential and creative with her designs. She manages to combine both definition and softness, as well as bold and light colours. Her work is very arty, especially this look for John Galliano.

Makeup Artist: Pat McGrath
John Galliano Spring/Summer 2010
Vogue

She has drawn on the eyebrows over the top of her models, and she hides them underneath the mass of messy but perfect silvers and purples. There is definite Elizabethan influence in this makeup, the eyebrows are hidden and drawn back on over the smudged, coal-black eyes and the bold lips. The base is also very pale, but is not a ice-white, but a very pale shade of nude. 

Final Design

My final design is a mixture of my designs, moulded into one. I wanted to continue with the purple theme, as I feel the red and black theme was very obvious for the task. My New Elizabethan look will be on a base of a very light foundation, a mixture of the Kryolan Foundation Palette and the White Skin Base. This look consists of strong contouring of the cheekbone using 'Shallot' from the Brilliant Colour Palette and the Brown from the Blush Palette by Kryolan, instead of the traditional, circular blush of the era. I want to bring the contour down to the jaw slightly, so that the bottom part of the face isn't bare. This contouring will continue onto the top of the forehead just at the sides, which will elongate my forehead, as the Elizabethans wanted long foreheads as this was a sign of intelligence and aristocracy. The eyebrows will be blocked out using glue, and a purple gradient will fill the space between the eye and brow, and on top of the brow to further conceal it. The eyes will be drawn back onto the face, using the Supra Colour by Kryolan in black, which will exaggerate the illusion of a high forehead. The eyelashes will be black lace, as the Elizabethans wore a lot of lace, especially the wealthier ladies. I feel by incorporating lace will add another texture to the look, but also links their costume to this makeup. The lips will be MAC Lip Mix in a mixture of the red and blue to create a deep plum colour. This will be outlined by the shimmer lipstick mixed with the gold Supra Colour, to define the look.

I have studied the 'Makeup Is Art' Book by The Academy Of Freelance Makeup, finding my inspiration and also tips on how to create my look. This book has supported my experimentation of products and method, particularly in the contouring and the application of fake eyelashes. As these are two very essential aspects to my design, I have used this book to study. 

Reference: Makeup Is Art, AOFM Pro

Timelapse of myself practising the look:

Final outcome: 

(Still need the eyelashes)

I am really pleased with the outcome of my design. I need to work on being precise with the eyebrows and them being symmetrical. I am pleased with the contrast of the tones, the bold lips and eyebrows balance out the features, and I think the eyelashes will really tie the design together. I am pleased on the progress of myself blocking the eyebrows, I am beginning to be able to conceal them more.

In class I practised blocking the eyebrows and blending the eyeshadow over the glue, as the glue doesn't pick up the pigment as much as the skin. 

I feel this is effective due to the shapes of the shadow, elongating my forehead. I think the blending has worked well, and the eyebrows are very close to being concealed completely!