Kevyn Aucoin

Kevyn Aucoin was an American Celebrity Makeup artist, who grew up in Louisiana with his adoptive parents, Isodore Adrian Aucoin and Thelma Suzanne Melancon. He was brought up alongside his three other adoptive siblings, all adopted through the Catholic Charities of Alexandra, Louisiana. From a young age, he was interested in makeup, and would sit for hours applying his sisters makeup, and taking pictures on his polaroid, a thing he would do for years to come. At the age of 6, Aucoin realised he was gay, and would regularly be bullied, and would suffer abuse from teachers and classmates. It was difficult for his Catholic parents to accept this aspect of Aucoins life. He was nervous of buying makeup in shops, and opted to shoplift, until he became terrified of being caught. He dropped out of school due to the bullying because of his sexuality, and enrolled in a beauty school, but ended up teaching the class. He worked on a makeup counter at the age of 18, and for $30 would do a lady's makeup, but because of his gender, many women refused. He moved to Baton Rouge in Louisiana, and whilst looking at the new makeup alongside his male friends, was approached by a security guard and taken upstairs to the office to be beaten, all due to his sexuality, and being a man meant that he couldn't look at makeup. He began to fear for his life, and moved far away to New York, in hope to start his career as a makeup artist. In 1893, without a resume, he had a chance meeting with Vogue, where his fate was sealed. He worked with photographer Steven Miesel every day for a year and a half, when his career took flight. His shoot with Cindy Crawford took the spotlight, and from then was earning up to $6,000 a session. He has subsequently worked alongside Cher, Gwyneth Paltrow and Janet Jackson. He published books including Face Forward, The Art of Makeup and Making Faces, where he used everyday people as well as celebrities to show his techniques. His legacy is continued in his makeup brand, after his untimely passing in 2002. He is believed to have set the standard for makeup artistry across the world.
(Unknown author, 'About Kevyn Aucoin' (online), [viewed 07/11/2014], available from:http://kevynaucoin.com/the-brand)
(Wikipedia, Last updatd Septmeber 24th, 2014, 'Kevyn Aucoin' (online), [viewed 07/11/2014], available on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kevyn_Aucoin)

Kevyn Aucoin and Janet Jackson
http://kevynaucoin.com/the-brand

The Westmore's

The Westmore family are royalty in Hollywood. The family has produced four generations of exceptionally talented makeup artists for Hollywood since 1917, when George Westmore established Hollywood's first makeup department. At this time, actors and actresses had to complete their own makeup, so George Westmore ultimately changed the film industry.

George Henry Westmore (1879-1931) was a specialist wig-maker, and later a makeup artist. He worked on a vast amount of celebrities, including cutting Winston Churchill's hair, creating Mary Pickford's signature curls and created the lace wig. He is referred to as the Patriarch of the Westmore family, which has since produced four generations of makeup artists. He taught his sons, Perc, Wally, Ern, Monte, Bud and Frank, the techniques of the makeup industry, with Monte working with MGM, Perc becoming head makeup artist at Warner Brothers, Wally was head of Paramount and Ern at 20th century fox. Bud was head at Universal Studios, and youngest son Frank wrote a book on his talented brothers and father, 'The Westmore's of Hollywood'. George sadly killed himself in 1931 via mercury poisoning, after his marriage with second wife Anita Salazar took a turn for the worst.
(Encyclopedia Britannia, 2014, 'Westmore Family' (online) [viewed on 0711/2014], available from: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/641129/Westmore-Family)

The Westmore's have worked on almost every major celebrity in Hollywood, Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. In the 1930's they created their own makeup brand, 'House of Westmore', which beautiful stars such as Rita Hayworth, Gail Russell and Marilyn Monroe advertised. This was a huge beauty salon on Sunset Boulevard, and became well known across America for the amazing makeup. 

Marilyn Monroe appearing in an add for Tru-Glo Makeup and lipstick by the Westmore's in 1953.
http://ladylikelady.tumblr.com/post/79345528672

Gail Russell starring in a movie magazine advert for OverGlo by the Westmores, which was also publicised for the movie 'The Unseen' in 1945.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35255697@N03/5396573583/

Rita Hayworth modelling for Westmore Cosmetics in 1941
http://silverscreenoasis.com/oasis3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=5863&start=330

Westmore Cosmetics Advert 1950
http://www.vintageadbrowser.com/beauty-and-hygiene-ads-1950s/43

The Taming Of The Shrew

Shakespeare Retold is the title for the series produced by BBC in 2005. It consisted of 4 short films, 'Much Ado About Nothing', 'Macbeth', 'The Taming Of The Shrew' and 'A Midsummer Night's Dream'. These traditional Shakespeare plays are rewritten and set in present time, making them more relatable to the modern day public.

The Taming Of The Shrew stars Shirley Henderson (commonly known for Moaning Murtle in the Harry Potter Series) as Kate Minola, Rufus Sewell as Petruchio, Jaime Murray as Bianca, Kate's international model sister, Steven Tompkinson as Harry, Bianca's manager, and Twiggy as Kate's mother.

Kate is horrendously psychotic, but equally as hilarious. Her opening scene is complete with a Jaws-like soundtrack and the image of quick-paced feet stomping through parliament. For me, Kate resembles the Elizabethan's the most out of the cast, not just for her looks, but her personality too. Her hair is styled in an just off-centre middle parting, and is seen in an up-do right until the day of her wedding, the opposite of how the Elizabethan's wore theirs. Her makeup is very plain and pale, unlike her sister Bianca's. The eyebrows make this look contemporary, as they are bold and thick. The costume always fashions a large collar which resembles a ruff, or statement, similar to the Elizabethan styling of the time. On her wedding day, she wears a pearl-coloured satin gown, which I believe the stylist has chosen, as Queen Elizabeth always wore pearls to represent purity. The style of her wedding dress also fashions a large collar, which makes her look more superior. Her hair is styled in a high hairstyle, complete with a pearl hair accessory at the back.
There are many resemblances to the Elizabethans in the styling, as well as her strict personality, and staying unwed and pure until she reluctantly falls in love.

Petruchio is another character that for me is a New Elizabethan. He wears fur, a costly fabric which also shows superiority. He even has a title, the 16th Earl of Chartbury, which shows that he is an important character, even though he doesn't particularly show this side of him. His home is vast with heavy wooden doors, high ceiling, large, arched windows and even a chandelier, but when Kate is first introduced to the home, it is ageing, dusty and tired. Petruchio is described as 'big, eccentric, overwhelming... he hits people when they get in his way', which to me resembles that of Queen Elizabeth, as she was very eccentric of her time, and had the superiority for people to move out of her way with a click of her fingers if she wanted them to.

There are many similarities to the Elizabethan Era in this short film, from the scenery of the offices being red, black and white (the main colours of the Era) to the clothes and personalities of the characters.

Reference: (Wikipedia, 1st May 2014, 'ShakespeaRe-Told- The Taming Of The Shrew (online) [viewed 07/11/2014] available from ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ShakespeaRe-Told#The_Taming_of_The_Shrew)
(Duncan and Ennis Macleod, June 2008, The Taming Of The Shrew, Shakespeare Retold (online), [viewed 07/11/2014], available from: http://www.shakespearefilms.com/the-taming-of-the-shrew-shakespeare-retold/)

Where Have All The Surfing Cowboys Gone?

In a seminar with Sharon and Dr Carina Buckley, we spoke about blogging, and describing and investigating images. We were told how to pick apart the image, starting with who, why, what, where and how. The seminar was very informative, and we were set a task, to analyse an image from fashion blog 'fashiontoast'.

I chose to study this image, as it is my favourite from the set, due to the composition, and the lighting effect. This was the first thing I noticed, as the flare protrudes from the image, straight from the sun, through the model, and to the viewer of the image. My eye followed the flare of light, which led me to notice to model herself, standing in a street, looking down to her shoes. By her looking down, the viewer is led to follow her stare, which then focuses upon the bright white shoes. As a fashion blogger, it is clear why her shoes and dress stand out of the picture; to simply sell them. There are many leading lines in the image, particularly towards the model, so I know the photographer knew he/she had to sell the clothing through the image. The photograph is real, but there are aspects of surrealism; to me the model is enjoying a slice of time which has paused for her, whilst the rest of the world continues. The lighting flare almost cuts her apart from the busy everyday life of the passing cars, so she is in that moment by herself, but is content with this. The setting is very normal and an everyday scene to many people across the world, making this image less staged than it probably was. It is a portrait but is a long shot, as it focuses on the model but includes the scenery behind her. The photograph is more about a feeling, for me this suggests that wearing these clothes will take you to that happy and content place, where the sun is shining and you have confidence and no care in the world. The photographer has purposely made you feel in a dream world due to the lighting, there is a sense of utopia in the image. It reminds me of a summer's day, watching everyone go about their day-to-day business and not have any qualms. I have discovered how much staging goes into a photograph like this one, as the photographer has had to wait for a certain time of day to capture the light as it does, and has thought about how to create a perfect composition. The image is all about selling the clothes, and making people want to feel this good wearing them, which I believe the photographer and the model has achieved. 

Reference:

(Rumi, 2013, 'Where Have All The Surfing Cowboys Gone (online), Full Date: 07/03/2013, [viewed 03/11/2014], available from: http://fashiontoast.com/2013/11/where-have-all-the-surfing-cowboys-gone/)

Face Charts

In our practical with Kat, we began creating our own designs for our final Contemporary Elizabethan look. We looked at the work of many makeup artists and fashion designers, who have included the Elizabeth inspiration in their work.


Kirsty Mitchell
Mitchell is a photographer that I have referenced much of my work to through my education. In A-Levels I studied her work, in connection to my fairytale theme. This image is derived from a collection from 'Wonderland', which is created in memory of her mother Maureen. When her mother died in 2008, she escaped her desperation through her camera. She was still a fashion designer at the time, and with the help of makeup artist Elbie Van Eden, used this project as a positive, working on the weekends in the woodland that surrounded her home. She created masterpieces that are undeniably magical, making her fantasies real. 'Wonderland' is an ongoing project the Mitchell works on, and she has been producing these images for 5 years. This is a piece named 'The White Queen', produced in 2012. There is a clear influence of the Elizabethan Era through the costume, and hair and makeup. Her hair is in the typical heart-shaped style that Queen Elizabeth wore herself, with curls at the front of the head for decoration. There is a modern twist of the hair being weaved as a pattern over the decoration, and sprayed white, as if her cold look is producing waves of ice. The makeup is also inspired by the Elizabethan era, her eyebrows have been removed or hidden by the makeup artist, as the Elizabethans would do this to convey intelligence. I particularly like the use of bold eyes contrasting the pale white stare.
(Kirsty Mitchell, Published 2012, 'The Story Behind Wonderland' (online), [viewed on 03/11/2014], available from: http://kirstymitchellphotography.com/galleries/wonderland/the-story-behind-wonderland/)

I created two face charts that are influenced by the Elizabethan Era. On one, I focused on having the model very very pale, no eyebrows, and blue lips. I decided that the model would be very pale as that is how Elizabeth herself wanted her skin, and the no eyebrows as many women plucked theirs out but had drawn them back on. My modern twist was to not draw them back on, and instead of a bold red lip, I chose blue. I would like to try this out on a real face to see how I liked the look on a real person. My other look was a more contemporary version, with straight, high arched eyebrows, black blusher and red and black ombre lips. The application of the blush would be very Elizabethan, having spots of colour rather than lines of colour. I would keep the face pale, and the eyes very plain. This look is more of an Asian influence, the model slightly resembles a Geisha, which I was not wanting to convey.

Drawing Skills

In our practical with Kat, we focused on our drawing skills. Drawing develops your analytical skills, and your understanding on form, colour, texture etc. We started with the basics, holding the pencil towards the end, and drawing straight lines and shapes. You have to move your arm to create a straight line, if you move more with the wrist than the line will curve.

We began to experiment with the shades of each pencil we had, creating a shading scale. Each pencil can create a range of tones, the B's creating darker whilst the H's create lighter shades. The B's are better for drawing and sketching, the HB, F, B are better for everyday use, whilst the H's are better for Graphics, as they produce a very clean line. After experimenting with each pencil, and seeing the shades it could make, we began looking at form. We started shading different shapes to create the three-dimensional effect that is needed for accurate drawings. 

I prefer portraiture to any other drawing, as I like to convey the sitter's personality through my work. The sitter for this piece was a 1 year old boy, drawn on A3.

I have completed another piece of a monkey, an image I found on the internet.

In both pieces I used a full range of tones, using not only pencils but rubbers to create highlights. The B pencils were used for the shading and creating that much-needed depth, whilst I used H's in particularly 4H to create the definition, which makes the pieces more realistic. 

Halloween!

In our practical with Sue we practised Day of The Dead Makeup, also known as Candy Skulls. The aim of the lesson was to complete a look as symmetrical as possible! 

Dia De Los Muertos (Day of The Dead) is a Mexican Holiday, celebrating those who have passed on to the afterlife. The Candy Skull makeup is inspired by the sweets that are sold in Mexico during this holiday, skulls decorated in vast, extravagant colours, sequins and glitter. They are gifts for both the dead and living, they are not morbid, as the aim is to celebrate the dead, and remove the fear of death itself. People decorate their own faces in the same way, and from it's roots has spread around the whole world.

(Thaneeya LLC, 2010, Dia De Los Muertos History (online), [viewed 02/11/2014] available from:http://www.celebrate-day-of-the-dead.com/dia-de-los-muertos-history.html)

 I'm happy with the outcome of my Candy Skull, but I do need to work on the symmetry of it. I used the Supra Colours by Kryolan for this piece, which are grease paints. I used Illamasqua Skin Base in White to create the pale look, then used the blue grease paint to create bold eye sockets, and then used my fingers to create the blue contouring, blending as I went. This inspired me to create my own look for halloween that night, so I decided to be a skeleton, using just black and white Kryolan Supra Colours. Halloween is one of my favourite days of the year, as you can go all out to create a fun look, that you can't really fashion the rest of the year!  I have previously been Avatar, which was also a very fun look to create, painting my whole body blue!

Reference: http://www.celebrate-day-of-the-dead.com/sugar-skulls.html